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Whenever curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, tucked prominently among these food titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has left the owners completely surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states a proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.